This Way to Hiroshima & Miyajima

Hiroshima surprised me. I didn’t expect to like it as much as I did.

I had visited Nagasaki a few years before my first trip to Hiroshima. Because of their shared histories, I expected a similar feeling of heaviness from Hiroshima, a sense of joylessness often felt in places with dark histories. But that wasn’t my experience at all.

Like many tourists, I was drawn to Hiroshima because of its unfortunate role in the war. Stepping foot in Peace Memorial Park will remind you of that. Peace Memorial Museum and the Atomic Bomb Dome are the city’s most famous attractions but as I would later learn, they’re hardly the only reasons you should visit Hiroshima.

From oysters the size of baby’s fists to one of the three most celebrated views in Japan, stay long enough and you’ll realize there is so much more to Hiroshima than its tragic past.

GUIDE TABLE OF CONTENTS

HIROSHIMA AT A GLANCE

Hiroshima is a former castle town that was an important center for military activity during the imperial era. It played significant roles in multiple wars, though none more remembered perhaps than the Second World War when it was the first of two Japanese cities targeted by a nuclear weapon. The second was Nagasaki.

About 70% of the city’s buildings were destroyed by the atomic bomb, but Hiroshima has since rebuilt itself to become the biggest city in the Chugoku region of western Honshu.

Today, the site of the nuclear attack is one of the top tourist destinations not just in Hiroshima, but in all of Japan. The same can be said about Itsukushima Shrine in Miyajima, a sacred island less than an hour southwest of central Hiroshima.

For centuries, the shrine’s floating torii gate has been regarded as one of the three most scenic views in Japan.

BEST TIME TO VISIT HIROSHIMA

Hiroshima enjoys a temperate climate so there’s really no bad time to visit. My last trip was in the middle of winter and I was perfectly fine with just a puffer jacket, even while hiking on Miyajima Island.

Hiroshima is a year-round destination but like many cities in Japan, spring and autumn are typically the best times to visit. Not only is the weather ideal, but you’ll get to enjoy the cherry blossoms in spring and the turning of the leaves in the fall. A hike in Miyajima would be even more spectacular in either season.

WHERE TO STAY IN HIROSHIMA

The city center is the most convenient area to stay in Hiroshima, but if you’d like to do some hiking and be closer to nature, then you may want to spend a night or two on Miyajima Island as well. It’s an easy trip that every visitor to Hiroshima should make.

HIROSHIMA CITY CENTER

If your main goal is to visit the main attractions in Hiroshima City, then it’s best to stay in the area immediately east of Hiroshima Peace Park.

This puts you close to the city’s top tourist attractions like the Atomic Bomb Dome, Hiroshima Peace Museum, Hiroshima Castle, and Shukkei-en Garden.  You’ll also have your pick of the best restaurants and be close to many shopping malls and arcades.

You can search for hotel listings in downtown Hiroshima on Booking.com or Agoda. Here are some of the top-rated hotels in the area:

MIYAJIMA ISLAND

I love Miyajima Island. Located in Hiroshima Bay, less than an hour south of the city center, it’s home to beautiful temples and shrines, none more famous than Itsukushima Shrine and its floating torii gate.

Miyajima is also home to free-roaming deer and hiking trails that take you up Mt. Misen for spectacular views of the city and bay. I took a day trip from central Hiroshima on my last visit but on my next trip, I’m definitely staying at least a night on the island.

You can find accommodations on Miyajima Island on Booking.com or Agoda. Listed below are some of the top-rated hotels on the island:

THINGS TO DO IN HIROSHIMA CITY

Visit Peace Memorial Park & Museum

As described, the Peace Memorial Park and Museum are the most visited attractions in Hiroshima. The park occupies over 120,000 square meters of open space and features multiple monuments dedicated to the victims of the nuclear attack.

The most prominent structures at the park are the skeletal remains of the Atomic Bomb Dome. Despite being the closest building to the hypocenter, it was one of just a few structures that was left standing after the attack. You can see the building’s dome through the sculpture’s arch below.

Opened in 1955, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum consists of two buildings with exhibits recounting the events of the nuclear attack. It features items like toys and articles of clothing that survived the bombing, along with the human stories behind them.

I visited the Atomic Bomb Museum in Nagasaki a few years ago. Both museums are powerful but I found this one to be more emotionally charged. The museum in Nagasaki focuses on the events surrounding the bombing while the Hiroshima Peace Museum zeroes in on the human tragedy. It’s hard not to get teary-eyed while going through the exhibits.

I went to the museum on my own but if you’d like to go with a guide who can explain everything in more detail to you, then you may want to book a tour through Magical Trip.

Enjoy the Atmosphere at Shukkei-en Garden

If you like Japanese landscaped gardens, then you’ll probably want to spend some time at Shukkei-en Garden. Located just east of Hiroshima Castle, it’s a medium-sized garden featuring a central pond with a rainbow bridge and multiple walking paths.

Shukkei-en isn’t as big as some of the more celebrated gardens in Japan, but it’s beautiful in its own right and a great place to spend an hour or so in Hiroshima. I visited the garden on my own but there are a few tours on Get Your Guide that make stops at Shukkei-en.

Try Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki

Like Osaka, the one dish that Hiroshima is best known for is okonomiyaki. If you’ve never had it, it’s a Japanese savory-sweet pancake made with wheat flour batter mixed with eggs, grated yam, shredded cabbage, and other ingredients.

Osaka and Hiroshima okonomiyaki are slightly different versions of the same dish. Both are delicious but for me, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is better. Check out this Hiroshima food guide to learn more about the differences between the two.

There’s no shortage of okonomiyaki restaurants in Hiroshima, but if you’d like to try it with a local guide, then you may be interested in this bar hopping food tour.

Make a Quick Stop at Hiroshima Castle

Hiroshima Castle will never be mentioned in any list of must-visit castles in Japan but I liked it. It isn’t nearly as grand as Himeji or as striking as Matsumoto but it has its own charm with its wooden exterior and tree-lined grounds surrounded by a moat.

I admired the castle from across the moat but visitors are welcome to explore the castle grounds and enter the main keep for a fee.

Take a Cooking Class

If you love Japanese food and like to cook, then you may be interested in taking a cooking class. I haven’t taken one in Hiroshima but I did take a cooking class in Tokyo where I learned to make classic Japanese dishes like udon, tempura, and tamagoyaki. It was loads of fun.

Check out airKitchen and byFood for a list of cooking classes in Hiroshima.

THINGS TO DO ON MIYAJIMA ISLAND

Located less than an hour from central Hiroshima, Miyajima Island is an easy day trip but if you’d like to explore the island with a guide, then you may be interested in this half-day Miyajima walking tour.

Enjoy One of Japan’s Most Scenic Views at Itsukushima Shrine

Itsukushima Shrine is the main reason why people visit Miyajima Island. It’s a Shinto shrine and UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its large torii gate that appears to float on water at high tide.

Together with Amanohashidate in northern Kyoto and Matsushima Bay in Miyagi, Itsukushima Shrine’s floating torii gate is designated as one of the three most celebrated views in Japan. So renowned is this shrine that the island used to be called Itsukushima Island.

Today, it’s more commonly known as Miyajima, meaning “shrine island”. When the water recedes at low tide, visitors can walk up to the gate and see it from up close.

Take in The View From Senjokaku

When you visit Itsukushima Shrine, you’re sure to notice this beautiful five-storied pagoda resting atop a hill. It stands beside Senjokaku (aka Toyokuni Shrine or Hokoku Shrine), a large wooden hall originally built to be a Buddhist library.

Senjokaku is basically just a large open space without much to see or do, but it does offer fantastic views of Hiroshima Bay. It’s a great place to sit and enjoy a few quiet moments of reflection on Miyajima Island.

Make a Stop at Daishoin Temple

Located at the base of Mount Misen, Daishoin Temple is one of the most important temples of Shingon Buddhism. It consists of multiple buildings with numerous statues, religious items, and meditation halls.

Compared to Senjokaku, there’s a lot more to see at Daishoin Temple, like this cave with 88 statues representing the temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

Daishoin Temple is located at the start of one of the hiking trails. You can spend a few moments here before trekking up to the summit of Mount Misen.

Go Hiking on Mount Misen

Hiking up to the top of Mount Misen was my favorite thing to do in Hiroshima. At 500 meters (1,640 ft) above sea level, it’s the highest point on Miyajima Island and offers spectacular views of Hiroshima Bay.

There are three hiking trails that take you up Mount Misen. Each will take you between 1.5-2 hours to reach the summit. I took the easiest trail which gave me a decent workout, but if you’re relatively fit, then you shouldn’t have any problems trekking up the mountain. The scenery is beautiful and you’ll probably cross paths with the many deer that live on the island.

If you’d rather not walk the entire way up, then an alternative would be to take the Miyajima Ropeway. It’ll take you to the upper station at Shishi-iwa Observatory, which is about thirty minutes from the summit. Pictured below is the observation deck at the very top.

On my way down, I passed through Momijidani Park, one of the most famous places to view the autumn foliage in Japan. I went in winter when the trees were mostly bare but visitors in early to mid-November will be treated to the spectacular reds, oranges, and yellows of the fall season.

The park is located near Momojidani Station, the base station of the Miyajima Ropeway.

Feast on Hiroshima Bay’s Famous Oysters

Hiroshima is famous for its oysters. You can find them everywhere but the best are said to come from Miyajima Island. Oysters have been cultivated in Hiroshima Bay for nearly 500 years so it only makes sense that the freshest oysters can be found in Miyajima.

Oysters in Hiroshima are prepared in many ways. The oyster set below is comprised of deep-fried breaded oysters, grilled oysters, smoked oysters, oyster miso soup, pickled oysters, and kaki meshi (oyster rice). They’re delicious at any time of the year but especially in January and February when the oysters are at their most plump. Oishi!

Enjoy a Tea Ceremony

Are you planning on having a tea ceremony in Japan? You can probably do it in busy downtown Hiroshima but you’re better off waiting until Miyajima. In my opinion, being in a less distracting place closer to nature makes the experience more enjoyable.

They’re obviously made for tourists but Klook and Get Your Guide offer cultural experiences that allow guests to put on kimonos and learn calligraphy while enjoying an informal tea ceremony with Japanese confections called wagashi.

DAY TRIPS FROM HIROSHIMA

Motonosumi Inari Shrine

Motonosumi Inari Shrine is a Shinto shrine famous for its spectacular series of bright red torii gates. Located in Yamaguchi prefecture, 123 torii gates are aligned like a tunnel and lead visitors towards a cliff facing the Sea of Japan. If you want striking Instagram photos, then this is a great place to visit on a day trip.

Located three hours away from Hiroshima, Motonosumi Inari Shrine isn’t near any major towns so it may be best to rent a car and drive there yourself. You can refer to this article for information on driving in Japan.

Tsunoshima Bridge

If you’re going to rent a car and drive to Motonosumi Inari Shrine, then you may well continue on to Tsunoshima Bridge.

Located less than an hour’s drive from Motonosumi Inari Shrine, Tsunoshima Bridge is the second longest bridge in Japan. It measures 1,780 meters (5,840 ft) in length and connects the mainland with Tsunoshima Island via a scenic drive with clear views of the ocean on either side.

Sandankyo Gorge

If hiking on Miyajima Island isn’t enough to satisfy your thirst for nature, then you may want to spend the day at Sandankyo Gorge.

Located about 1.5 hours northwest of Hiroshima, Sandankyo Gorge is a lush forested area offering plenty of trekking and kayaking opportunities. You’ll have several routes to choose from but the full hike takes around five hours to complete. You can refer to this excellent article for more information.

Sandankyo Gorge is closer to the city than the previous two destinations, but buses from Hiroshima Bus Center are limited (click here for a schedule). Going by bus puts you on a tighter schedule so it may be best to rent a car and driving there yourself.

VISIT HIROSHIMA FAQs

Is Hiroshima worth visiting?

Absolutely. I wasn’t expecting much but it turned out to be one of my favorite destinations in Japan. Hiroshima City on its own is worth a quick stop but pair it with Miyajima Island and it becomes a must-visit.

How many days should I spend in Hiroshima?

A minimum of two days would be ideal – one to explore Hiroshima City and the other to do some hiking on Miyajima Island.

Is it easy to get around in Hiroshima?

Yes. Like Nagasaki, Hiroshima has an extensive tram system called the Hiroden. It’ll take you to many of the city’s top tourist attractions, including the ferry port to Miyajima Island.

I usually get stored-value IC cards when I visit Japan but there are a few tourist passes you can get to save on transportation. The one-day Hiroden Pass, for example, will give you unlimited rides on Hiroshima’s tram network for one calendar day. You can even get a version that includes round-trip ferry rides to Miyajima.

If you plan on staying longer, then the Visit Hiroshima Tourist Pass is another option. Not only will it give you unlimited rides on trams, buses, and ferries for 1-3 days, but you’ll also get a voucher book with coupons to sightseeing spots and restaurants throughout the city.

Tourists with a valid countrywide JR Pass or a JR West regional pass will be pleased to learn that they can use it to ride the Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus (Meipuru-pu) for free.

Should I spend the night on Miyajima Island?

Yes! You can see Miyajima’s highlights in a day but if you have the time, then it would be nice to stay the night and enjoy the island in its quieter hours. Like many popular day trip destinations, you’ll appreciate the island more after the tourists have gone (or before they arrive).

THE FINAL SAY

Hiroshima isn’t on the usual tourist trail in Japan but it should be. The Peace Memorial Museum and Istukushima Shrine are must-do experiences, plus there’s enough in Hiroshima – like the food and hiking on Miyajima – to merit return visits.

I, for one, am looking forward to going back!

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